thesurfbot

Video by Nathan Oldfield.

Video by Nathan Oldfield. Found on Kassia Meador‘s site.

Surprisingly fun surf today in spite of wind and mixed swell. There was a bit of chop but I got some fun waves in the mix. Last week was busy and before that, the Bay area had a week of rain and wind. I was jonesing for surf and even today’s mediocre conditions made me super stoked. Low expectations are awesome that way. Max tried out my 10′ board and was having a good time and his shoulder injuries may be fully recovered (fingers crossed)! Afterwards, I brought my Harbour over to Dan to check out a pressure ding and slight crack on the back of the board. Hopefully, it won’t take too long to fix, but in the meantime, it might be fun to try Max’s 9′ Harbour Banana or my old Mitsu.

#150 / 2pm

[3-4 ft waist to chest high occ. 5 ft. POOR TO FAIR CONDITIONS.REGIONAL SUMMARY: This afternoon a WNW groundswell holds steady with the better exposures generally in the chest-shoulder-head high range, as some sets hit up to a couple of feet overhead at top exposures. Light onshore winds in the early afternoon for mainly clean to textured conditions.]

Tyler Warren on a 4’10 mini Simmons.

Fun left. Photo by Max.

So much fun today! Felt like SoCal. Not only was it perfect, mellow, knee to chest-high waves and a clean 12 seconds west, I finally got my rhythm back. Waves were nonstop on the south end. Even though the lineup and beach were packed on a sunny warm Saturday, once I paddled out, I found a sweet spot (in front of the “river”) where it was just myself, two longboarders and a SUP. There were plenty of waves to go around. Lost track of how many fun rides I had. So stoked. Max is resting his shoulder/trapezoid and took the photos from the beach. Wish he had been able to surf today. He would’ve loved it.

Small, sweet right. Photo by Max.

#149 / 3pm

[3-4 ft + waist to shoulder high. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: WNW(280-300) groundswell on the fade today but still offering up plenty of decent-sized waves for exposed areas. Head high to overhead+ waves show early, while top breaks can occasionally see sets to nearly double overhead. Expect these sizes to wind down as we move through the day. Offshore wind early for smooth, clean conditions.]