Thursday, Jan 12, 2012
Beautiful conditions today. It was about waist-high with light offshore winds and no closeouts! It was a welcome sight. While we were suiting up, I spotted a section that broke left and lined up near TB, but I never managed to catch one of those. I did get a fun left a bit farther south. Today was another milestone in Max’s return as he managed to paddle out and sit with me on the outside. Woo!! The current was pushing up south so we paddled north. I got another few short rides before the next lull between sets. Great time.
#148 / 2pm
[2-3 ft + knee to chest high. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Old NW swell fades while minor South swell mixes in. Most breaks across the region are in the waist-chest high range, with open exposures still pulling in some shoulder-head high sets at times. Conditions are clean with offshore flow and a dropping tide helping the overall shape at many locations.]
Monday, Jan 9, 2012
From the cam, it looked like sunny Lake Linda Mar, but when we arrived, a large set was rolling through from north to south, with light offshore winds shooting spray. We ran into Greg and chatted with him for a few and watched the waves. We all agreed the south end was the best. I paddled out in between sets and sat with only two other surfers on the outside. The first guy nailed a nice right on the first wave of the set, while the other guy wiped out on the second wave. On the inside, two shortboarders wiped out as well. Tide was dropping and the waves were breaking right into shallow water. You either had to be pretty far outside or immediately on the inside. I observed for a while, enjoying the solitude and watching the swell lines roll in from north to south. Occasionally I had to paddle over some steep ones. After sitting for a bit, I paddled around for better position. I opted for medium-sized waves and caught two short fun rides. Max had his Harbour 9′ board today instead of his shortboard. He was able to do a pushup the other night without any shoulder issues (after his PT suggested trying it) and today he managed to popup and get to his feet on several whitewater reforms. So happy that he’s getting better after two months!
#147 / 2pm
[3-5 ft waist to head high occ. 6 ft. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Long period new WNW(285-310) groundswell builds in through the day today. Most breaks are starting off in the chest-shoulder-head high+ range, with top exposures that can focus the longer period energy pulling in some 2-3' overhead sets. The tide is making for some sluggish, warbly corners at a lot of breaks, but there are still some good corners mixing in. Conditions are nice and clean thanks to light ENE-NE winds.]
Monday, Jan 2, 2012
Just made the drop.
A big swell is arriving in CA tomorrow but we knew today would be mellow and small so we headed down in the late afternoon for a relaxing surf. The north end looked good for the first time in a week but crowded. I opted for the middle instead where there were perfect logging waves rolling into small lefts and rights. Lost track of how many waves I rode. It was pure fun. Thanks to Max for taking the photos of me in this post.
About to go left.
Looking right.
In the lineup from the beach.
Looking north.
Now that's a surf sticker car. Awesome.
#146 / 4pm
[2-3 ft knee to waist high. FAIR CONDITIONS.]
