Surfed LM with Max. Small and flat but had a great time. Ate a Clif Bar before heading out for some extra energy. Chatted with Alan, local guy parked next to us, who told us to get a good topo map of CA and to keep a log of conditions and breaks. He was mellow and I didn’t realize he was a surfer until he started admiring/talking about my Mitsu board and its unique shape. Felt kind of tired this morning but once I got in the water, I was stoked. The ocean was calm today so I had a chance to practice paddling and it felt really good. Speedy. Water was cold but it doesn’t phase me at all now. In fact, I like the briskness… a reminder that your senses are heightened in the ocean. Several yards away, a pelican dive-bombed to catch a fish. Paddled to the outside to wait for waves but ended up coming in a bit and caught 4 whitewater rides. Getting used to my board and popping up quickly. Also, really excited to be able to spot my own waves instinctively now. Sitting on the outside break with other surfers lined up along the whole stretch, and M a few feet away, I sat on my board, hands dangling in the water, looking out at the horizon and the calm ocean, and felt an incredible moment of peace.
#15 / 3pm
[poor+ 1-3 ft / 1ft 10 s from WNW swell]
