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Dawn patrol layover (Waikiki 103016)
Our flight left Papeete at 11:30pm and we arrived at HNL a little past 5am for our layover, went through immigration, rechecked our bags, caught a taxi and got to Waikiki before 6am. Took the photo above on the way to BK for a sandwich as the rain was ending and the sky was turning a light pink. We suited up, chatted with Tony, got our boards and paddled out with only a few SUPs and a handful of surfers in the line up. We both got a couple of waves right away and were stoked! Glad we got some small, fun waves as things started to slow down...
read moreOne great ride (Rocky Point, Tahiti 102916)
We finally made it to Tahiti, after a couple of years of delays due to work changes, then moving back to Dow last year. This time, after rejoining the web team last month, it all came together with a week’s window for vacation from Oct 22-29. I found a great deal to stay at the Manava Suite Resort in the deluxe lagoon suite for 40% off. Manava was the best and became our home base for our week’s adventures. We had planned to surf Wed and Thurs with two different instructors but it turned out that the heavy rain brought lots of...
read moreHeatwave + SSW (Pacifica 092616)
The heatwave and SSW converged over the weekend and continued today and I was eager to get out after missing the weekend. Still, after being at work, eating a burrito for lunch, my motivation was lagging. Max encouraged me to go. Main lot was packed and tons of beach goers everywhere. Found a 30 min spot in the south lot. Didn’t look like many waves on a low tide. Contemplated skipping. Got so hot in the car that I finally thought, well at least I won’t be hot! Paddled out and felt refreshed. Within a minute, a wave rolled through...
read moreSweet SW (Pacifica 090916)
Snuck in a Friday morning surf after seeing conditions have been fair with some NW and SW swell. Two girls parked next to me and felt bad for one of them who hit her face with her board and was getting a big bump. Told her to get ice on it right away and don’t be surprised if it swells again in the next couple of days. Lots of people grouped in the middle peak by the main lot but only a handful of folks on the south end, which looked a lot cleaner to me.By the time I paddled out, only a few surfers were in that spot. Chill guy with the...
read moreMore Rights (Pacifica 090216)
Another beautiful beach day, this time with sun and some wind, but occasionally offshore. Got down at 10 after dropping off Max’s wallet at work, and thought I was early but the main lot was packed and the lineup looked like a weekend already. Ah, well. Everyone’s trying to get in a 4 day weekend with Labor Day coming up. Found a spot upfront in the south lot after waiting a bit. Parked next to Poodle Bob, who commented that they were just talking about us and our long absence from the beach. Rick Eastman had been there and said...
read moreFun Right (Pacifica 090116)
Skipped surf yesterday, day 3 of staycation, to do random things (clear my desk, cleaner came, etc), but kind of wished I surfed by the time it was evening. So today I headed down in spite of fog and wind. Bigger today and choppy. Some wind for sure. Middle had those biggish, close-out windswell waves and some crowd. Saw a guy going out with a plank of wood. Not quite an alaia, but close to it. Wow, I thought, he must be good. Saw another guy doing floaters off closeouts. Kind of motivating for sure. I headed to the south end where there were...
read morePacifica Staycation (083016)
Plenty of waves today even on a high tide, thought often hard to get! Still sunny and mild wind contrary to forecasts. Got five waves and one really good right. Surfed with dolphins in the lineup, and a group of Canadians (“Is that a shark?!” he shouted. “Noooo, dolphins,” I replied). Super tired by the end but stoked!! Ate at the beach afterwards. Beach bum life is goood. ps – Got a Lickytung Pokemon in the south lot ^.^ #467 / 9′ Mitsu Afternoon Report for SF-San Mateo County: Small NW windswell and very...
read moreBack at Pacifica! (082916)
Work life finally sorted out last week, ending my weird role w/ R, and beginning a new role with my old/new team. So stoked. Have the week off. Made it back to the beach after many months. Was supposed to be cloudy and over 10mph WNW winds. Turned out to be sunny and very low wind! Put my fin on, ate two bananas, played Pokemon, texted Max and headed out. Got two waves in the first 5 minutes with only one guy out on the same peak. Weeee. Rest of the sesh was like that. Fun little mushy waves. A couple of rights, a few lefts. Short and sweet....
read morePaddle at Doran (070816)
Came back for another paddle out with Max in his kayak :) 9′ Green...
read morePaddle at Doran (070716)
Paddled out with Max on his kayak for the first time :) Windy and cold but still fun! We camped at Doran #94 for two nights then found a respite from the crazy wind with a lucky spot at Bodega Dunes #91, perfectly private and sheltered site. 9′ Green...
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