We headed out a bit later this morning because of the tides and had breakfast at Lulus. It was sunny and a perfect 80-something degrees. I was psyched to try my new 10′ orange Koa board (on the right next to Max in the photo below).
Conditions were pretty similar to yesterday but we spotted a nice wave breaking farther left of the left tower and started there. Because of yesterday’s collision, I was planning to stay on the farthest outside, let the first wave of the set pass (and take most of the 20 or so surfers in front of me with it), leaving me my choice position on the next wave without anyone in front of me. This worked out perfectly and I got some great long rides on my new board. The best one was super smooth… spotted the wave while it was just a bump, paddled fast past everyone else, gave it a few extra strokes, felt it drop, popped up and rode it in. Max said he saw me paddle along with 2 people on either side, we all popped up, went behind the wave. Then he saw each of their boards fly up in the air and saw my head as the wave dipped down from behind and knew I had made it. Max got some great rides and we lost track of time for the next 2+ hours. Stoked.
#107 / 12pm
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Residual SSW swell providing small but ride-able surf for southern shores today. Most spots only have waves in the knee to waist high range with larger sets at channel entrances. Moderate trade winds will provide nice offshore conditions for town shorelines and side shore choppy conditions for SE facing shores.]
Leave a Reply