Just made the drop.
A big swell is arriving in CA tomorrow but we knew today would be mellow and small so we headed down in the late afternoon for a relaxing surf. The north end looked good for the first time in a week but crowded. I opted for the middle instead where there were perfect logging waves rolling into small lefts and rights. Lost track of how many waves I rode. It was pure fun. Thanks to Max for taking the photos of me in this post.
About to go left.
Looking right.
In the lineup from the beach.
Looking north.
Now that's a surf sticker car. Awesome.
#146 / 4pm
[2-3 ft knee to waist high. FAIR CONDITIONS.]