Beautiful first day of 2012. Sunny and exceptionally warm (upper 60s) for the past week. Even at 4pm, it was warm and windless in Pacifica – perfect for a sunset surf. Unfortunately, Max had a kitchen accident last night and sliced part of his finger, so he couldn’t get in the water today but still went down to the beach with me. I miss surfing with him in the lineup. I’m sure if he was 100% he would have loved today’s sesh. Perfect for logging. Almost glassy, no wind, high tide with knee to waist to chest high waves.
I had a blast in the mellow conditions. Paddled out, sat up, turned and caught the first wave as it approached, shaping into a nice right. Woo! The next set, I got a pretty sweet left before straightening out to avoid the surfer coming from the right. Got another two smaller fun waves as the sky turned a light pink and the sun set. Happy new year. Here’s to good waves and stoke in 2012!
#146 / 4pm
[3-5 ft waist to head high occ. 6 ft. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Solid WNW(280-300) swell slowly eases as small SW(190-210) trickles in at exposed areas. Decent-sized head high to overhead+ surf continues, while top breaks still hit that double overhead mark on occasion. Smooth, clean conditions thanks to offshore ENE wind.]