Thanks to Max for getting this shot of me!
Beautiful first day of 2012. Sunny and exceptionally warm (upper 60s) for the past week. Even at 4pm, it was warm and windless in Pacifica – perfect for a sunset surf. Unfortunately, Max had a kitchen accident last night and sliced part of his finger, so he couldn’t get in the water today but still went down to the beach with me. I miss surfing with him in the lineup. I’m sure if he was 100% he would have loved today’s sesh. Perfect for logging. Almost glassy, no wind, high tide with knee to waist to chest high waves.
Another shot of me on the last wave that took me all the way to the beach.
I had a blast in the mellow conditions. Paddled out, sat up, turned and caught the first wave as it approached, shaping into a nice right. Woo! The next set, I got a pretty sweet left before straightening out to avoid the surfer coming from the right. Got another two smaller fun waves as the sky turned a light pink and the sun set. Happy new year. Here’s to good waves and stoke in 2012!
When we first arrived.
#146 / 4pm
[3-5 ft waist to head high occ. 6 ft. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Solid WNW(280-300) swell slowly eases as small SW(190-210) trickles in at exposed areas. Decent-sized head high to overhead+ surf continues, while top breaks still hit that double overhead mark on occasion. Smooth, clean conditions thanks to offshore ENE wind.]