Slept in too long, rushed down to the beach to make it back in time for our meeting. Looked so-so on the south end with choppy highish tide waves not exactly breaking until shore, but it was a sunny, gorgeous morning, with the water looking super blue, low wind, and warmer-than-usual water. Wee! Paddled out in a hurry and started looking for possibilities. Max got a wave at the beginning. I knew we only had about 30 mins and was in such a rush. Pretended I was in a heat. How many waves can I get? Turned out to be nonstop for me, catching ones over and over on that peak (lined up to the drain). Surprised at the number of waves once out in the water and as the tide hit high and started coming down again. The ones that rolled in from the north and scooped out were the best. Angled right on almost every takeoff and went zipping down the line, catching up to the next section, pulling up over the back of the wave. Practiced kicking out with my board in control and not flying into the shorebreak. So fun. Came up to the car to check the phone and turned out we had some extra time. Ate a banana and headed out again. More rights! Lost count after ten rights. Short and fast and all about the takeoff and maximizing the right before the ride was over. Came in super stoked and made it back to SF (lucky parking in the carpool spot) and was exactly on time. Good karma day!
Watch only counted one but at least it was 32 yards! The white paddling lines were my other waves :)
#427 / 10 (1) / 3′ rising / 9′ green Mitsu
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