Last morning in Waikiki. Got to bed at some point last night while watching round 2 of the J-Bay event. Had the alarm set for two times -7am for surf; 9am for get up to go have breakfast and get to the airport. At some point at night I was either dreaming about being awake or I was awake thinking whether I was going to get up or not. Felt awake the whole time either way. The 7 am alarm went off and I hit snooze. Once more and I got up, checked with Max and he opted for sleep, so I crept out of the room in my shortie and grabbed my beach bag and some cash. Got some coffee, water and a banana down in the lobby and headed for the beach. Light rain falling, some overcast skies, but the temperature – so amazing when it’s 80 in the morning and you can stroll to the beach without any shoes or jacket. The beach was pleasantly sparse and just a few surfers out. A perfect slice of rainbow beamed down from the sky to ocean horizon in the distance. Wow. Rented a 9’6 from the Beach Boys. Eric Haas was there chatting with one of the old instructors. So cool. Paddled out on the low tide careful of the reef. Didn’t have to go too far out to catch a nice, mellow ride. YES. Mission accomplished. One last surf before the flight home. Got another longer one from the mid-outside. The sparse lineup was so refreshing. Before I paddled in, I sat up on my board and took a moment to soak in the whole experience and seal it in my brain – the sweeping curve of the beach, Diamond Head, the distant curved horizon, the blue, warm water, the warm air… breathe. A hui hou, Waikiki. Mahalo for all the aloha. Until next time.

#410 / 7:54am (40) / low tide / 9’6 Walden Magic

Screenshot 2015-07-15 21.23.59