Getting readjusted to SF after HI is never easy ;) Between work and high WNW winds every day, today was the day to wake up early and get down to Pacifica. Low wind, warmer than usual and a Sunday. Picked up Max’s 10′ Bruce on Friday and he was stoked to get on it after surfing the ten footers in Waikiki. Turns out my 7’4 had a ding on the left rail so we dropped that off (and the Koa) at Sunset Shapers for repair yesterday. Thought I’d try my island Mitsu today. Great board of course, but with the choppy conditions today, I probably could’ve used a bit more weight in the board. It was great to get out earlier than usual and before the hordes arrived on a Sunday. Wind wasn’t too bad but started to pick up later. Took some readjusting in the beginning. In Hawaii, I’d just slide myself up into position as I pulled the board in. Funny thing with the wetsuit, it kept getting stuck on the wax so I’d be slightly too far forward on the Mitsu. Quite a workout paddling around avoiding the outside but trying to get the ones that actually broke inside. Here it’s lots of jumbly, rolly, big ones sometimes steeping up and the lineup is close to shore. Hawaii, you paddle out much farther but then the general conditions aren’t as choppy (or as much work haha). Managed to snag two waves: one with a steep drop where I was just kinda hanging onto it. Fun one. It was great to see Max getting waves on his Bruce. Headed to the Mission for some gyoza and bean soup at Chaya afterwards.


Screenshot 2015-07-26 18.09.30

#411 / 9′ green Mitsu