Today was so good! Tahiti got a big swell last Wednesday and we’ve been waiting for it to arrive here. Waikiki was 4-5′ yesterday and fair (yum) and luckily we didn’t have to be too jealous this morning since Pacifica turned out to be slight offshore 3mph SW, warm at 61 degrees, and signs of clean SW waves. Got up at 6:20am. Made it to the south lot and were in a rush to get out and get back to SF for a 9am all-hands meeting. Saw the crispy waves and wished we had all day to surf, of course. Just happy to be in the water on a beautiful morning with clean, nonstop waves rolling in. I missed the first couple in a rush to catch one, then calmed down a bit and got a sweet, short one. The next was a perfect right – fast, easy turn on the Mitsu and then I managed to pull up, turn down, pull up again, turn down three times before swinging left into the shorebreak. Soooooo fun. The Mitsu is harder to paddle out at LM but once on the wave, it’s like a weightless thing under my feet. So responsive and fast. Got two more waves, including a steep one that brought me all the way in at the end. Perfect. Strangely, I somehow lost my Ripcurl watch on Sunday. Had synced it to my phone in the Jeep, then we headed to the Mission. Last time I saw it was in the car but can’t find it anywhere :( Now I’m kinda hooked on seeing my waves on a map and wish I had it today. Might have to get another one (?!). Max was scoring waves on his 10′ Bruce, which has made all the difference. He’s back into surfing and it’s awesome to see him catching waves with confidence on this board. The SW is supposed to keep going for the next few days. Can’t wait to get up earlier tomorrow and have more time to catch waves. WOO.
#412 / 7:20 (25min) / 2′ rising / 9′ green Mitsu
3-4 ft +- waist to shoulder high
POOR TO FAIR CONDITIONS
Afternoon for SF-San Mateo County: Nice mix of NW windswell and healthy SW swell has the surf in the shoulder high range, while standouts hit overhead. Winds are light+ WSW now for mostly textured+ conditions. Tide drops to a 2.78′ at 2:58pm.
6ft at 8s NW (311°)
3ft at 16s SW (217°)
1ft at 11s S (178°)