Not surfing for three days felt like an eternity but we were swamped with design work. Managed to get enough done for a surf this afternoon with Max. Conditions were great, rising to high tide with a small south swell and 3-4 ft waves at the Jetty. I had the chance to try out my new 1.5mm Xcel gloves and .5 skull cap which arrived this week. They were perfect for what I wanted – thin enough to not hinder flexibility but kept the chill of the water off the skin on cold days. Since it was a weekday, there were only a handful of surfers out, with everyone spread out along their own little break. So much fun. Caught a ton of small, short rides. All it takes is a few to get the stoke back and feel fit. Thank you, ocean!
#73 / 3pm
[2-3 ft Light and variable west-northwest winds with smooth seas. Small short period wind waves from the west-northwest. 2ft @ 10s from WNW. REGIONAL SUMMARY: WNW swell-mix and SSW(195-205) groundswell ease through the day. Most spots see chest-shoulder-head high surf, as standout breaks pull in a few overhead sets. Winds are light/variable onshore keeping conditions lightly textured as the tide drains out to a negative low just before 9am]