Lots of traffic today driving down to HMB so we got there a bit later than expected, just missing high tide. Still, there were some nice peaks near the center and southerly breaks. I caught one memorable perfect wave today from the outside, timed just right to make the takeoff and ride it in. Stoked! The beach was packed with people but there were only a few surfers out even near the Jetty. We watched those breaks for a bit to see if there were any nice rights, but only saw one or two shortboarders catch 2-second short rides.
#72 / 2:15pm
[1-2 ft Light and variable northwest winds with smooth seas. Small short period wind waves from the west-northwest. Small long period swell from the west-northwest. REGIONAL SUMMARY: NW windswell on tap today, along with slowly building, long-period SSW(195-205) energy. Most spots see waist-chest-shoulder high waves this morning, while top breaks go head high and occasionally bigger. Wind is currently light, although there is some residual surface bump/crumble at the more open areas. A negative low tide keeps shape drained.]
[Veg patty on bagel]
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