It’s great to be back in Oahu after eight months, especially since I’ve been out of the water in NorCal for a couple of months. Busy with work and it’s been consistently raining and cold, with so much rain that LM was closed because of sewage overflow. While winter on the island isn’t as warm as summer, just surfing without a wetsuit and booties is such a pleasure. We arrived this afternoon and headed out to Canoes for a welcome sunset session. Waves were really small and I paddled like mad over and over but they keep flattening out. Nevertheless, the water felt so good, the ocean was beautiful and just being out again was more than enough. Feeling fortunate to log the first session of 2011 in Hawaii!

#93 / 4pm