Awesome surf today at rising tide. Having fun doing my new thing of trying to get a good one within the first 5-10 mins. Conditions were more mixed and bigger than yesterday (SH). Caught three good ones, including one with a fast deep drop. Had to lean back to make it but did a solid turn right to go down the line and kicked out before the rocks. Had one wipeout that sent me spinning and sucked down some water for the first time in a long time. Lots of power to the waves and some steep ones to paddle over. Getting better at reading these waves. So stoked to be getting some longer rides. The south break was working as well with longer rides towards the cove. Beautiful lines rolling in regularly as the SW swell picks up.
We stopped by at sunset to see if conditions were still holding up and yep, they sure were. The far outer break was going off, with big sets rising up at the kelp bed and rolling in towards the cove. Gorgeous long lines and lots of post-work surfers out to catch a few great ones before dark. The only thing as good as starting your day with a surf is ending it with one!
#160 / 1:15pm (1hr 15)
[2-3+. Fair. WNW swell and gaining SW swell.]