Much smaller and weaker swell today as the WNW drops off, but still super fun to be out with summertime temps and mellow Sunday cheer. Nola was out with us. Also pleasantly ran into Darren in the lineup. I got four fun small rides right off the bat, lined up between the kelp and 2nd jetty, waiting for the peak to swing my way and catching those. Then the second half of the sesh was mostly paddling for ones that broke too far in. Saw Darren get a good one from the outside all the way in. Max had the GoPro Hero3 on his board for the first time and filmed the whole session. Wow, the footage was incredible – completely captures the feeling of being on your board in the water. The wide angle gives it a slight fish-eye and the HD is crispy. Love the board-level view of the water with everything amplified. Sunlight refracting off water on the lens. Gorgeous. Can’t wait to shoot video! Storm’s coming in this week and we have to be in SF but hope to see if Wed turns out to have 11-12′ waves as forecasted.
On a tiny inside wave. View from the GoPro on Max’s board:
#197 / 1:30pm / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Things are looking a bit funky/warbly with the rising tide this morning, but rideable and even semi-fun nevertheless. NW(290-320) swell mix continues, blending with with SSW(180-200). Exposed spots go waist-chest high, while top breaks hit shoulder-head high and occasionally better on sets. Clean early thanks to light wind. 5.49′ high tide @ 7:49am – plan accordingly.]
3ft @ 13s from WNW (303)
2ft @ 8s from WNW (287)
1ft @ 10s from WNW (289)
1ft @ 12s from SSW (195)