Today was so good! Thought we might be too close to low tide but it turned out to be perfect. Started out smallish but then really turned on with 5-6 waves per set, easy to catch long rides. On one shoulder high wave, I could’ve pulled tighter into the face, crouched down and gotten a cover up. Max and I were stoked with a smaller Saturday crowd than yesterday. Chatted with Nola. Lots of friendly longboarders out. It seemed like most people were sitting too far out. Max and I and a few others hung on the 2nd peak inside of the kelp and caught nonstop fun rides. I lost count after six. Stoked! One was a pretty steep drop and I made a much faster, tighter turn right than usual. A surfer dad and his kid were down by the cove and I saw him pointing at me as I went down the line. We shared the lineup with a sea otter who was busy devouring a crab while doing spins in the water. Today’s weekend, summery mood at the beach meant lots of families and little kids lined up on the beach to take a photo with surfing Santa and his reindeer helpers standing in front of longboards. Capitola is so cute.
#196 / 1:40pm / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: New NW(290-300) swell on the rise today as fun-sized SSW swell holds. We’re off to a pretty soft/weak start though as the tide creeps up to a 5.43′ high at 7:18am and really slows down most areas. Good breaks see knee-waist high waves and larger sets to chest high. Top spots hit shoulder high on occasion. Size/shape improve as the tide drops through the morning. Light wind early for clean surface conditions.]
3ft @ 13s from WNW (299)
1ft @ 13s from SSW (197)
1ft @ 8s from WNW (285)