The lulls were longer today and the waves weren’t quite as consistent as yesterday but it was still excellent conditions at low tide this afternoon with a fading W swell. To top it off, it was a summery mid-70s and sunny. Still blows my mind how great the waves are here and how much more satisfying it is to surf here compared to Pacifica and HMB. My surfing has improved exponentially with more water time and much better waves. We paddled out to the lineup of a small group of locals (Nora, Hawaiian longboarder, woman with the blue Pearson) outside by the kelp. We also finally met Ryan and Nathan’s dad, Ian, in the water who turned out to be the bearded guy on the red longboard. Really nice guy just like his sons. Waves were mushier than yesterday and I paddled for several that didn’t pan out but also got two good lefts – one that was short and fast. Then the last wave of the session had a nice angled drop, fast turn, and lots of speed as I raced left towards the inside doing two curvy turns around surfers paddling out and staying really low. Had enough time to pull back into a section and regain speed all the way into the beach. It was definitely my longest left there so far. Max was on his 9’6 again and got some good lefts too. We were both happy to have gone out in spite of design deadlines. Back to work!

#188 / 3pm / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: New SW and WNW swells build in as some old West swell drops out. Waves are in the 3-4′ range at better exposures with some plus sets at standouts. Winds are light and conditions clean this afternoon as the tide drops.]
3ft @ 13s from WNW (291)
2ft @ 18s from SW (214)
2ft @ 14s from SW (218)
1ft @ 10s from W (272)