With the super high tide at 10am (5.5′), we had planned to get up at 6am but when the alarm went off, I hit snooze, checked the cam, and turned the alarm off after not seeing any waves or surfers. Glad we slept in a bit because the afternoon dropping tide on a west swell turned out to be the bomb. In between just a few lulls, nonstop waves rolled in near the kelp beds and for a Sunday, the crowd was totally manageable and friendly as usual. Max was on his 9’6 for the first time in a long while and he was loving it – easier to turn than my 10′ Koa for sure. I kept seeing him vanish into the distance on long rides, swooshing right all the way past the boulders. He got one of his longest rides ever from the kelp all the way in. I decided to hang at the main peak and go for the lefts after catching one fast shoulder-high ride that took me towards the 1st jetty. Haven’t gone left in a while and it was so much fun! The rides weren’t as long as the rights but it was a perfect day to practice lefts. A few times I was perfectly lined up to the peak and paddled and popped up right in front of the curl, feeling the speed of the wave pick me up as I turned left and tried to pull in tighter on the face. Must of gotten at least seven good lefts. Got a nice compliment from a body boarder later on who was paddling out as I rode the wave past him. So stoked.

#187 / 2pm / HP1
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Clean, workable waves on tap this morning as a blend of West-WNW swell and inconsistent SW groundswell combine. Size has come down a tad, but good exposures continue to see waist-chest-shoulder high waves on occasion. Standouts go slightly bigger at times. Watch for a big 5.48′ high tide just before 10am to slow things down. Light wind early for generally smooth surface conditions.]
3ft @ 11s from W (275)
2ft @ 16s from SW (215)
1ft @ 6s from WSW (251)
<1ft @ 21s from SW (220)