It’s been a super busy two months with client work, topped off with the rainiest, stormiest winter I can remember in the past five years that we’ve lived in SF. As a result, we haven’t managed to go surfing for two months. Argh! We finally came up for air this week and really needed to surf. We had a great morning and afternoon with one of our clients who came up from Santa Monica, and after we sent her off to the airport after a late lunch, we hustled to get our gear and drove down to Linda Mar. Conditions were pretty good, and after the long hiatus, I was just psyched to get in the water again. I could definitely feel my slack physical condition compared to last time when I had surfed regularly in Hawaii and was feeling really strong. I was athletic when I was younger, playing soccer from age 9-18, basketball, tennis, track, then later through my twenties, did a lot of hiking, winter camping and kayaking. Compared to all those, surfing stands apart. It’s a full body workout, drawing on muscles you never knew existed. Each session makes you stronger. Today, I paddled through the shore break and could feel the strength I had lost. Nevertheless, it was a great day out: waves small enough to manage, air temp in the 50s and sunny, with only a handful of surfers in the water and a few families on the beach with kids and dogs. We stayed in the south end, where there were a few corners to ride while the north was bigger with lots of close outs. Caught a nice bonus wave on my way in. Rejuvenated!
#43 / 3:30
[4-6 ft shoulder high to 1 ft. overhead. PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: Winds remain light/variable onshore this afternoon allowing for a continued clean-up across the region. NW-WNW swell peaked this morning, and will slowly start to fade, as some small SSW swell mixes in. Better breaks have head high+ surf, with 2-3-4′ overhead sets for the top NW exposures. Things are still a little crossed-up, but have improved further since this morning, with some fun corners in the mix if you have the patience.]
[Split pea soup and Luna bar]