Navigation Menu+

Friday Yay (Pacifica 091115)

Posted on Sep 11, 2015 by in surf sessions

IMG_6309

Back at the beach finally! Our Jeep wouldn’t start on Tuesday morning and I almost cried knowing I’d have to forego the good conditions and heatwave at LM until it was fixed. We kept sane for three days with the help of the Trestles contest. Jeep is back as of last night and it’s so much smoother now having fixed all sorts of things. Having missed some of the better SW Jimena swell, it was smaller today but still with low wind. Lots of surfers out as usual for a Friday. Max was taking a lazy day so he could chat with Rick about getting a 10′ retro board. I headed out by TB after seeing the guy with the orange dot Pearson get some good rights. It was mixed up but I managed to get some good ones lining up to where he was. After a while, he started chatting with me and turns out his name is Loni, lives in Berkeley, originally from north in Humboldt. Talked about noseriding, surfing OB, Wingnut haha, in between getting waves. On one sweet set wave, we split the peak: he went right and I instinctively went left, made the drop, saw Max and Rick chatting on the wall, then looked down the line and flew all the way towards the beach, straightened out and grabbed my board. Saw a cute family standing on the beach when I kicked out. So fun. Felt super competent today. Oddly, the boat from last week is still out there. Bonus was seeing a pod of dolphins splashing around.

Screen Shot 2015-09-12 at 5.54.14 PM

#436 / 11:11 (1) / 5′ high / 9′ green Mitsu
2-3 ft +- knee to chest high
FAIR CONDITIONS
Afternoon Report for SF-San Mateo County: SSW continues to fade out slowly, and, mixing with a nice little NW windswell, will offer waist-shoulder high surf to exposures. Best combo breaks see some head high or bigger sets. Winds continue to blow moderate from the WNW now, making for somewhat sloppy conditions at unsheltered breaks. Tide drops to a 1.64′ at 4:32pm.
2-3ft
3ft at 9s NW (315°)
2ft at 4s WNW (297°)
1ft at 14s SW (226°)