Max and I are back on Oahu six months after our last trip. We had originally planned to spend two weeks in our favorite spot, the north shore, so we could be there during the holding period for Pipeline Masters, but after some deliberation, we decided to stay on the south shore instead. Since it’s December, we knew the north would have swells too big for us to surf. Indeed, today Pipeline Masters went off with 8-10′ barrels for the first day, and earlier on Tuesday, the Eddie Aikau invitational was called with 25-30′ waves at Waimaea. We watched the live stream in awe while packing before we left SF.

We’ll head up to the north shore next week (still want to witness the winter swells) but for now, we’re spending some time on the south shore. We went out this afternoon for a mellow surf session at Canoes in Waikiki, just down the beach and across the street from where we’re staying. After a couple of months without surfing in NorCal, getting out in the warm water with on my 9’1″ Mitsu was just what I needed to reconnect with my surf self. It was pretty crowded out with lots of tourists and instructors on soft-tops, as well as lots of stand up paddlers catching small waves. Still, it felt great just to be out in gentle waves with my longboard. We lost track of time in the warm water and stayed out for over two hours. Needless to say, I’m loving freedom of surfing in warm water (72 degrees) with just board shorts, bikini and rash shirt. Heading out again tomorrow!

#26 / 2:15 pm
[Declining off-season SSW swell providing some small but rideable conditions for southern shores this morning. Most locations have waves in the ankle to knee high range with a some sets in the waist high+ range. The Kilo Nalu buoy is reading 2.8 feet @ 11 seconds…so watch for this swell to slowly fade throughout the day. Light winds will provide glassy morning conditions with onshore sea breezes in the afternoon.]
[Vegan burger with avocado, tomato, sprouts, mustard on wheat bread; antioxidant smoothie from Ruffage]