Escaped for a surf today after three weeks of intense GWP stuff at work and August gloom. So great to be back in the ocean. Water felt so good. Board felt good. Padding was so fun. Catching waves like a dream. Rare sunny day. Offshore winds with some side shore. Looked a bit pitchy when we arrived but by the time we paddled out, it was starting to clean up. First wave was a party wave with Max. Woo. Already stoked. Next wave was a sweet right, pulled up fast and high near the spray, and flew right all the way to the inside. The current pushed us North… paddle south to line up closer to TB. Some lulls. Shortboarders on the inside. Saw dolphins in the distance and a big pelican dive-bombing. Beautiful. Wind died down and it got pretty glassy. Went for a bigger one that steeped up. Over my right shoulder, it was forming nicely. Looked over my left and it was much steeper. Saw Max and few other surfers watching me. Paddled hard. Popped up with the nose of my board in the air. Went mostly straight until the end with a bit of left, but it was a fun one. Paddled twice over some big outside set waves. It would go from lake-like to suddenly big and hollow. Got another fun ride on the way in. Afterwards, lines started shaping up even more. Longboarders were running to the nose on inside waves. Great day.
#348 / 12:50 (40) / 5′ high / 8’ Revolver
2-3 ft- thigh to waist high
PM Report and Short-Term Forecast for SF-San Mateo County:Slight bump up in NW windswell along with fading SW swell offers waist+ waves at most spots and larger sets for best NW exposed breaks. Moderate SW-WSW winds through the afternoon as the tide backs out to a 1.1′ low around 6:45pm and the southerly swell component slowly sinks with it.
2ft at 11s WNW (297°)
1ft at 20s WNW (282°)
1ft at 6s WNW (307°)
wind SSW/WSW 10mph