Got up early to surf before our meetings. Today was the fifth consecutive day I’ve surfed. Feeling really good. Beautiful, mellow, glassy waves this morning and only a few surfers out for the second shift. Tide was dropping, which I enjoyed today, as the rides were longer as it broke farther out. Lots of lovely waist-high waves within a short period, including one where I finally experienced the leash-in-the-kelp moment when the drag ended my ride abruptly. Paddling out through the glassy water with the marine layer and sky ever-changing, I was struck by the beauty. Max was out on his Mitsu 9′ so he could paddle (still not supposed to popup yet) and caught a sweet long stomach ride. Big stoke smiles all around.
#167 / 8:20am
[CONDITIONS: Very Small mid period swell from the southwest. Light west-northwest winds with a slight chop.]
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