So stoked today. First ride of the day occurred just seconds after we paddled out: a long smooth left on the outside of the cove that took me high and fast and even ended with a smooth kick-out. After so many rights, it was fun to go left and see the wave behind my shoulder. The rights weren’t too shabby either: easy to catch and with some speed, taking me all the way in towards the cove with enough time to do some swoopy turns.
Marine layer gave way to sun and low tide at 11am with two surf classes taking up different peaks. The crowd presents more work (navigating around them, etc) but I don’t mind it – it’s fun to hear the stoke from people that are learning and the instructors are usually chill and have good etiquette. There were also a handful of other surfers: a longboarder with zinc-face who was getting lots of inside lefts; a few guys that were catching rides here and there and one with whom I split the peak with twice. The SW swell arrives tomorrow so it’s going to get even better this weekend!
#168 / 10:40am
[CONDITIONS: Very Small long period swell from the southwest. Light and variable northwest winds with smooth seas.]
1ft @ 14s from SW (225)
1ft @ 5s from W (272)
<1ft @ 11s from SSW (207) <1ft @ 10s from WNW (295)