It was great to be back in the water today after taking a day off yesterday to beat those lingering cold symptoms with some sleep and cold medicine. Drank tons of water, ate healthy foods, and just laid around in bed at the hotel checking the web on my laptop. This morning, I felt pretty good and I really wanted to surf!
There was a light rainstorm which cleared up by the time we got to the beach. We paddled out in sunny, breezy conditions, with the air temp at around 79 degrees. After looking at the conditions, we went for Queens, the break to the right, which we’ve been watching for a few days and noticing the nice break that forms there. It’s always pretty crowded with a short take-off zone, but the break has sweet sloping waves. On big days, there’s apparently a lot of localism at this spot and it gets super crowded, but in this mellow winter period, we found people to be really friendly and cool. In fact, yesterday, one of the local guys was giving Max tips about what type of fin to get for his T&C board. Can’t wait to get out a bit earlier tomorrow when conditions are better and try for more waves here. It’s such a gorgeous spot with Diamond Head right in the background.
#35 / 12:00 pm
[Cool and crisp morning with little or no surf in sight. Most spots have tiny waves in the ankle to shin high range with a few larger sets at places that favor the northeasterly angle. Tradewinds have returned to provide offshore conditions for southern shorelines.]
[Clif bar, PB sandwich before; Vegan chili, brown rice and salad at Ruffage after]