Plans fell through for meeting up with friends from the Coastal Surfers group so we decided to head to LM since it looked really good on the cam. Minutes later, Izzy called with a report, “it’s warm, sunny, looks good and I’m heading into the water!” We saw him when we got there and he was clearly stoked. “I got barreled!” he declared. We knew then that it was going to be a great time if conditions were good enough for him to get barreled. We chatted for a bit and then he gave us his beach-view parking space. On a sunny, crowded Sunday, that’s a rare commodity.
We suited up, watched a set roll through and decided that the best spot was just south of the pumphouse. The north end looked awesome but super crowded and with my new board and Max’s recovering shoulder, we decided not to go for the biggest size, at least today. As soon as we paddled out, we could see the glassy rolling waves even more clearly. It was beautiful and I was psyched after yesterday’s mush. We both got some great rides and there was a good selection of waves: waist-to-shoulder-to-head high. Max kept getting lefts and I got lots of fast, fun rights. On one, I made the takeoff pretty quickly, turned right and pulled up, then down again and made a smooth left turn to keep riding the wave almost to the beach. I must have been in perfect trim because it felt so smooth and fast. On another, as I turned to see the face, I pulled up again to gain speed and keep the ride going. Even some of the smaller waves had some power today. The lineup was friendly and you could tell everyone was having fun. Great sesh.
#136 / 9:20am
[2-3 ft + knee to chest high. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY:
Short-period NW(295-315) swell continues as small SSW(190-210) groundswell begins to ease. Things looks fairly soft/inconsistent initially as the tide approaches a 5’+ high. Decent breaks see knee-waist high waves, while top spots get inconsistent larger sets (especially as the tide begins to drop). Conditions are nice with light wind.]
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