So stoked to be back in the water after a crazy busy two months. We’ve officially moved our residence to Capitola (still have an office in SF for our design company) and we couldn’t be more excited. We’re just two blocks away from the break and a short distance to 41st Ave, the point, and all the other amazing breaks. Love it here. For the first time, I can walk or ride my bike to the beach from where I live and that beach has a break I love to surf.
It was nearing high tide and the sets were far between but as soon as I paddled out over towards the cove, I got my first fun wave with an easy paddle-in, popup and turned right. The next one was the second wave of the set and I managed to be in just the right spot as it broke and rode a nice smooth right before kicking out. After that, it was a good 15 minutes until the next set and the water had some texture from the wind. The next set I went for the first wave, didn’t quite get it and had to paddle back out over the next five waves. Got pushed back on one, barely made it over another, turtle-rolled on the next and still got overturned a bit. Good practice and gotta get back in surf shape. It was the first time for me over at the cove after watching surfers catch long rides there back in June. Stoked!
#163 / 11am
[2-3′. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Fun surf this morning with SSW(200-220) Southern Hemi swell in the water along with light wind for clean conditions. Good spots run waist-chest-shoulder high, while top exposures can see sets to head high on occasion. The tide hits a -0.17′ low right about now (6:25am).]