Afternoon weekday sesh on a 2′ rising tide with a bit of SSW remaining. So fun. Gorgeous, WARM, summery day, whereas yesterday felt like fall. Water was refreshingly cool. Just a few other surfers out…the cheery, bearded guy and girl, two German guys on foamies, guy at the beginning on a Formula One that Max chatted with. Max and I had our pick of waves. We got our first one together early on and I was hooting the whole way. Small peelers. I rode several almost kneeling on my board, just feeling the wave, right in front of the curl. I’d paddle back out and the bearded guy would say “that looked fun!” So fun. The current pushed everyone south. Some wind and texture to the water but the waves didn’t subside. Paddle left to meet the peak on the inside of 2nd jetty and catch a long right. There was enough power to glide through the kelp, as I did on one. Right through one of those inside clumps. Last wave was super fun. Slightly bigger wave, clean takeoff, tail turn, swoop right and pull up high and just cruuuuuise. Max was having a blast on the 9’6 and yeah, I’m still loving my 8′. To top off the weekend getaway, we also checked out a dream studio this morning on E. Cliff @ 37th, across from Jack’s house, with a direct view across the street of the ocean. Would be the ultimate surfer’s studio. Fingers crossed.
#279 / 2:45pm / 2′ rising / 8′ Revolver
[Regional Summary: A clean, sluggish blend of easing SSW swell and minor NW windswell mix prevails this morning. Better breaks are running in the knee-waist high zone, with a few sets to chest/shoulder high for top focal points. Overall, most of the region is looking pretty swamped as the tide approaches a 4.89′ high at 8:06am.]
1ft 14s SSW (198°)