Wasn’t feeling very motivated this morning and at first glance, the waves looked meh and I was getting the Lindy blues. Closeouts and waves too close to shore. Debated whether I even wanted to go out. Then we saw a white-haired surfer catch a long left lined up near the pumphouse. Then another. And another. In the time we ate, he must’ve gotten at least six long rides and one cheater five. Max was taking his 1967 Stylist out at LM for the first time and he loved it, catching a bunch of awesome lefts in the same spot until his adhesive leash plug pulled off and he had to go in. We surfed different line ups today. I opted for a spot between the trees and pumphouse where a few shortboarders were hanging out. Watched a few waves roll through and figured I was a bit deep, paddled a bit south, then got a sweet one – easy takeoff, turn and loooong left all the way in. More swell than past days with waves rolling in. Some jumbled but enough that I could see the left shaping up from the south and adjust to catch them. Only a couple of surfers by me. Got my fill of fun lefts before paddling in to see what was up with Max. Made it back on time for a meeting with J by 11am. Stoked.
#257 / 9am / HP1
[Regional Summary: A very small blend of primarily modest NW windswell and some trace SSW swell leftovers prevails through the day. Surf is running waist high or less across most of the region this morning, as the tide drops towards a 2.24′ low by 9:21am.]
3ft 6s WNW (307°)