Having grown up on the east coast, it never really feels like Christmas to me in SF because of the mild temperatures and lack of snow. Instead, it’s a great day to go surfing. We went in the afternoon before the negative tide arrived (strange tide patterns recently). There were a handful of surfers compared to the usual Sunday crowd. The strong onshore wind was creating a lot of bumps and texture but we figured the south end looked manageable. Luckily, by the time we paddled out the winds had subsided. Max took out his shortboard today and is loving his new, warm 5/4 Xcel wetsuit. I managed to get a couple of short rides among the chop. After such a long time out of the water, it was thrilling to stand up and ride even a short wave. Best gift ever.
#143 / 2:45pm
[3-4 ft + waist to shoulder high occ. 5 ft. FAIR TO GOOD CONDITIONS.]
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