So after much research and discussion and some tips from the guy at Billabong yesterday, turns out the 5’2″ Biscuit has too much volume for me but the perfect volume for Max at 31.9L, which is why it was felt easier for him than for me. Realized the 6’6″ M10 is probably also too large for me. Thought about the 5’3″ CI Sperm Whale by Dane but they didn’t have that anywhere in town. It’s definitely more of a specialty, alternative board than a get-used-to-shortboarding board. The 5’4″ Motorboat (5’4″ x 19 1/4 x 2 1/4 and 25.2 volume) turned out to be the best option, designed by Machado as a hybrid between the Biscuit and the Gravy. Meant for small to OH waves. Magically, there was had one left on sale. Took it out today and it was a revelation. The right volume meant that paddling and sitting on it felt normal and easy. I wasn’t wobbling on it, could sit and sink it and feel balanced. Tried for a few waves and could feel the responsiveness. Got some prone rides to test it out at first jetty. So stoked! It was cold and overcast today and for the first time my hands were completely numb after 30 minutes (partly because of the temp and probably also because your hands are rarely out of the water on a shortboard). President’s Day meant more surfers than usual out in the water but fewer beach goers because of the weather. A storm’s coming through tomorrow but we’re hoping to get out in the morning for an anticipated 18 seconds. Can’t wait to spend more time on the Motorboat!
#218 / 3:20pm / 5’4″ Motorboat
[Regional Summary: Easing WNW swell. Look for the better exposures to offer mainly waist-chest high sets this morning, while some of the standout winter spots still produce occasional waves/peaks up to shoulder-head high. Conditions are clean. Dropping tide all morning.]
2ft at 14s WNW (286°)
1ft at 12s SW (211°)
1ft at 11s S (186°)