Today’s sesh goes down as one of my all-time favorites. Initially had low expectations with an unexpected crowd out (some kind of school holiday) and a building swell. Thought I would just paddle out and check it out. Instead, caught four, fast, bigger than usual waves from the outside. Within minutes of paddling out, saw a perfect one. Everyone else seemed either too far out or too far in. I sat left of the outside lineup and had every wave I wanted. They just came peeling right at me. Catch one, ride it in, paddle out, see another one. Couldn’t believe it. Accomplished some smooth turns. Felt competent and strong. Rode the rights all the way from the outside kelp in to the cove. Max got his first real ride on his DFR 6’3!! To top if off, he was on the same wave as I was, going right trying to catch up to me. I didn’t see him until we had both ended our rides. So stoked. My new thing is to really try and get in the groove of every wave I’m on. Figure out what it’s doing, what I should be doing. This becomes obvious as you gain experience as a surfer, but in the beginning, it takes you X number of waves before you can suddenly see what the wave is doing and react to it. Wave time and quality waves. These perfect Santa Cruz waves have changed me and my surfing forever.
#216 / 2pm / HP1
[Regional Summary: WNW groundswell continues to pump out fun waves this afternoon along with a dropping tide and light WNW winds. Waist-chest zone waves on tap for good spots while top winter breaks go shoulder high to a couple feet+ overhead on sets.]
4ft at 16s WNW (291°)
1ft at 12s SSW (197°)
0ft at 16s SSW (202°)