It was pretty flat earlier when we had coffee by the beach as it neared low tide, so we decided to come back in the late afternoon thinking the rising tide would help with the tiny conditions. Max bought a used Pearson Arrow 7’3″ board today so I decided to try out the Firewire 6’6″ just for kicks. Board was really buoyant, easy to paddle and fun to maneuver. Timing was completely different and I had to remind myself not to paddle too early as I normally would’ve on my longboard. Managed to get “up” twice right at the curl: the first time after knee-riding most of it, then stepping too hard on the tail; and the second was a fast popup before the board shot out from my under my feet. Ha, if only I’d stayed on it! Ryan was out on his short board too and had been in the water since noon (4 hours!). There was a loud kid who was shouting various things to himself and his friend and everyone else – “Outside! Everyone paddle out!.. Here comes a big one. Get on your boards! Paddle!..Better get ready. Here it comes!” Chatted with him later about Minecraft and surfing. “My friends just want to play Minecraft but I tell them that surfing is probably, like, a lot better for them.” Funny kid and very stoked. When I said I had to go, he yelled, “peace out, Emily!”
Sure, today I could’ve caught a nice handful of rides on my longboard but the variation was fun – loved trying the Firewire and feeling its differences. Max even got a ride on his Pearson! There’s something about these sunset sessions, too. So glassy. The pink sunset reflecting off the undulating water. Reenergizes the soul.
#200 / 4pm / Firewire 6’6″
[REGIONAL SUMMARY: Only marginally better than this morning with the minor swell and lower tide offering weak little 1-2 sets at top spots. Conditions remain clean.]
1ft @ 13s from SSW (210)
<1ft @ 16s from WNW (283) <1ft @ 19s from W (272) <1ft @ 12s from WNW (283)