Waited for the tide to come down a bit from the morning high before heading down. Slightly onshore and didn’t look like there were too many sections. Max’s first day back in the water after a week so we paddled out near the south where there weren’t as many closeouts. Didn’t have any expectations, but within about a minute, saw a nice line rolling in from the north. Paddled for it and got a sweet, long right. Probably the first wave on the 7’4 where I had a chance to really turn right quickly. FUN. This board is so speedy and feels glued to my feet. The most memorable wave was the next. Another right. Paddled, angled right, popped up, felt like I might slide off the back of the wave so I put all my weight forward on my left foot, caught it, then did some fast turn right that felt like nothing I’ve ever done – not even sure what it was. Like my right rail was really in the wave. Turned on the face? High line? Not sure. It felt so different. So fast. The wave right next to me. One smooth action that listed a millisecond and will remain in my mind forever. To get back to that feeling. Can’t wait until I do it again! Will be obsessed with that until I do. After that one, I was already loopy with adrenaline. Got two more fun waves before the tide drained out even more. Max got a couple on his glider too and even got a wave while body-surfing at the end.
#381 / 1:40 (50) / 1.5′ dropping / 7′4 Mitsven Egg
3-5 ft- waist to head high
Morning Report for SF-San Mateo County: New, mid-period W swell is mixing in with smaller energy from the NW and SW to offer shoulder-head high surf for most exposures, while best swell magnets see some well overhead sets occasionally. Winds are steady from the E now, making for smooth surface conditions. Tide is rising to a 6.23′ a 9:21am.
5ft at 11s W (268°)
1ft at 12s SSW (191°)
1ft at 10s S (180°)