Had a short but fruitful session this afternoon with Max. We weren’t in the best mood after the earlier car mishap in the lot. I was backing up the Jeep and a Honda Insight was pulling out of their spot from the second row of cars and ran into the back of the Jeep. We had minor damage to the plastic light housing and some scratches on our back bumper, but the entire left front of his Honda was bent in, broken and crushed pretty badly. We exchanged info, filed a report with the Pacifica police, called our respective insurance companies and all that. He was a surfer too so it was pretty mellow. One lingering thought is that I would never get a Honda Insight after seeing that damage from such a low-speed collision.
The swell was pretty mixed at the south end. The outside would jack up but then mush out unexpectedly. I kept repositioning to find the right spot and managed to get three memorable rides. On one shoulder high left, I had enough time to enjoy the trim and watch the face before it started to break towards me down the line. I straightened out and rode it into the kelp where a dude was trying to paddle back out. “I’m stuck in the kelp!” he laughed. Max got some good rides too and we were both stoked. It was a much needed head-clearing kind of sesh.
#127 / 3pm
[3-5 ft waist to head high occ. 6 ft. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY: SW (205-220) groundswell tops out today while mixing with fading NW mid-period swell. Better exposures are running shoulder-head high+ with some of the more openly exposed breaks pulling in some 2-3′ overhead sets on occasion. Winds are light onshore with semi-clean conditions as many breaks see improving shape now as the tide drops out.]