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Sunday with some swell (Pacifica 090615)

Posted on Sep 6, 2015 by in surf sessions

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Crowded as expected with sunny skies and light wind. Found parking in the south lot and took our time getting ready. Max was back on his Bruce after getting it back from ding repair and wearing a short-sleeve 2mm, which should be warmer than the shortie. Good thing, too, because the water was definitely colder today when we paddled out. He headed towards boat docks while I opted for just north of that lined up between the first house and the rivermouth. Got a fun, clean and faster than usual left within the first five minutes and was stoked. After that, I just paddled and found spots among the other surfers and managed to get some really fun angled take-off on lefts that all the way down the line without anyone else on the wave. Tricky part was how far out to lineup. Sets would roll in with bigger, hollowed out waves but not break, but if you were too far in, it might scoop out too much. Had one closeout/wipeout and the bottom of my board bounced on the top of my head. First one of those in a long while. Otherwise, I was in the zone and catching good ones. Did two turns around other surfers and kept going left down the line. Max wasn’t feeling it as much today and headed in early, but he was stoked on his new wetsuit and using the rail grabber to carry the Bruce.

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#434 / 11:59 (1) / 3′ low / 9′ green Mitsu
3-4 ft +- waist to shoulder high occ. 5 ft.
FAIR CONDITIONS
Afternoon Report for SF-San Mateo County: Surf is still looking fun early this afternoon with a blend of all sorts of different swells from all different directions crossing up for fairly consistent chest-head high surf. Best breaks are running a little overhead on sets and shape is looking fun/broken up and still on the clean side with just light onshore winds. Skies are sunny and it looks like a pretty good time to head out for a surf if you can.
3-4ft
4ft at 8s NW (319°)
3ft at 9s WNW (295°)
2ft at 15s SW (228°)