High winds and a mixed swell weren’t producing the best conditions at LM but we had a small window of time to surf so we went out anyway. As we sat on the beach to check the conditions, an older local man walking his dog and clearing rocks on the beach said, “you must be desperate to go out today! But at least when you get home and hang up your wetsuit, you can say right on.” Exactly. It turned out to be surprisingly fun despite lots of chop and wind. We stayed closer to the inside on the south end and caught several short, fast rides.
#91 / 12pm
[PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: A blown out, sloppy, choppy, unrideable mess is on offer this afternoon as our NW swell mix fades and some small SSW swell mixes in. A new/reinforcing shot of NW energy is on the rise at top exposures. Better breaks are seeing waist-chest-head high+ surf, with top exposures in the overhead to 2-3’+ overhead zone.]