Another beautiful beach day, this time with sun and some wind, but occasionally offshore. Got down at 10 after dropping off Max’s wallet at work, and thought I was early but the main lot was packed and the lineup looked like a weekend already. Ah, well. Everyone’s trying to get in a 4 day weekend with Labor Day coming up. Found a spot upfront in the south lot after waiting a bit. Parked next to Poodle Bob, who commented that they were just talking about us and our long absence from the beach. Rick Eastman had been there and said he figured we were surfing SC everyday. I wish! Explained to Bob about the whole work change thing and that we haven’t surfed LM since March. He was super nice and chatty today. Showed him Woody’s amazing work on fixing my board. Headed out at the south end and waved to grumpy guy. Found a little spot with just a few longboarders. Today was one of those days where it looked really good, but wasn’t all that good. Lots of waves that didn’t break on the rising tide. But I did get one really good one early on – a sweet right with a little drop and swooping turn and rode it in but not too far in, knowing there were rocks on the inside. Hooted after that one. That’s kind of all I needed was one good ride today. Got another right near the end, more on the inside as the tide rose. Had to step out carefully across the rocks since there was no beach. Super fun week surfing LM. Really needed this break before the new job starts. Now we’ll see if I can get motivated to get up at dawn next week and make it to daily stand up :)
#469 / 9′ Mitsu
2-4 ft- knee to shoulder high
Morning Report for SF-San Mateo County: Building NW windswell and small, fading SSW swell are offering up knee-chest high surf to good exposures, while standouts sees some bigger sets. Winds are steady+ from the W now, making for textured, crumbly conditions. Tide is still low now, rising to around 5′ at 12:40PM.