It’s the seventh day we’ve surfed in a row. So stoked. Slept in a bit later today since it’s Saturday and we knew it was going to be crowded at LM regardless of when we arrived. Today was the first time in a week that it wasn’t sunny and in the 70s but the beach was still packed with weekenders and the break was dotted with surfers in wetsuits as far as the eye could see. The middle and north were closing out but the south end looked good in spite of the crowds. It was an easy paddle out. We waited on the outside to check things out. After a bit, I paddled a bit farther south in search of a right. Sure enough, there was a nice right happening with barely anyone near the peak except two guys slightly inside of me. I said hello and went for the second wave of the set. Caught it easily, popped up and could see the smooth face in front of me and no one near me. I tried to pull my board up towards the peak twice and it worked to my surprise. Then, as the right started breaking I could see the left was open and did a turn and rode left until I was on the inside but lined up to pretty much where I started. Ahhhh. Max found some great rights too and caught seven rights to my six. What a great day. I was psyched for the French guy next to me when he finally got one. We both caught a set wave and paddled back out. “That was a nice set, wasn’t it?” he commented, clearly stoked. That’s the thing at LM, even when it looks absurdly crowded from the beach, as soon as you paddle out, you can always find a spot to yourself or just have fun sharing waves.
#119 / 12pm
[3-4 ft + waist to shoulder high occ. 5 ft. FAIR CONDITIONS. REGIONAL SUMMARY:
NW energy slowly fades this morning, although new mid-period NW-WNW(280-310+) swell moves in through the afternoon as long-period SW Southern Hemi energy lingers. Shoulder-head high surf prevails, while top spots see sets to a couple feet overhead. SW-WSW wind early for some texture and crumble @ most spots.]