Did the thing we’ve always wanted to and got up and surfed before our flight home. Drank coffee, ate a banana and hustled down to the beach, rented two big 10′ boards and caught waves! It was beautiful in the morning, fewer surfers, warm sunlight without the heat, warm water first thing to wake you up. The ocean was choppy and slight onshore but we saw waves where we would’ve been more selective on other days. That’s the thing about positivity – if you feel it you’ll see opportunity all around you. Saw Max get an awesome outside wave as I paddled out. Spray and chop steeping up as he paddled for it, popped up, and rode down the face. I lost sight of him as I paddled over waves but I knew he had caught a great one. I didn’t get anything epic but it was so fun to catch anything I paddled for: small bumps that turned into rides on the inside. Such a great send-off. A hui hou, Waikiki, we’ll be back soon.

#242 / 9am / 10′ NSP
3-4 @ 11 seconds SSW 193.