Went down to Linda Mar today with Max and it was truly the first chill day surfing in NorCal: no lessons, no time pressure, just the two of us with our Mitsu boards and an uncrowded break (just a few beginners and a guy teaching two kids how to surf). The water seemed really warm today and at one point I dunked my head in the water just to cool off. Very rare for here. Caught a few great waves, and one really excellent wave where I popped up, felt the force of the wave and stood back on my board. Caught the longest ride I’ve had at LM. Stoked.

#12 / 4:30pm