A new SW swell came in today as expected and it was a nice 3-4′ with lines rolling in but quite a bit of wash from waves breaking farther out and reforming across the reef. Max was on his new 9′ blue Mitsu and I was psyched to be back out on the green 9’1 Mitsu for the second day. Lots of waves breaking in various directions near our usual starting spot. Also, lots of waves to paddle over! Got a good reforming left and shaka-ed at Max who was paddling back out. Got a couple with steep drops. Made one, fell off the back on another. More power in the water today. Best one was near left tower where I saw a local guy (on the tri-color longboard) get a screaming left as I paddled back out and threw him a shaka. I paddled over the wave to his take-off spot, waited no more than 2 minutes when a wave came right at me. Paddled hard, looked over my should just to see the wave breaking towards me, angled and paddled left, popped up and got a fast, sweet left. Got a shaka from him this time, on his way back out. Ha. Got a bit paddled-out and wondered where Max was. Hadn’t seen him in a while. Ended up paddling almost to the beach before finally seeing him way on the outside. Paddled all the way out there only to not see him again. Turns out he was doing the same and we kept missing each other in the water. Finally met up on the beach! He’s stoked on his new board.
#399 / 11 (1) / 9’1 Mitsu
3-4 ft +- waist to shoulder high occ. 5 ft.
FAIR TO GOOD CONDITIONS
South Shore Afternoon Report: New SSW swell is topping out this afternoon, providing surf in the waist-head high range for many spots across the South Shore. Some of the standout spots are producing occasional sets that are a little overhead. We now have a light to moderate onshore seabreeze, but its not too strong, still fairly clean with just a little surface texture/bump to it. Mostly clear/sunny skies.