So much fun today. One of my favorite sessions ever. Started out trying to be more calm and chill today. Worked out well. Got in the rhythm. After a few waves on the inside that were fast and fun, moved more towards the outside of left tower. Saw a local woman get a great left from over there. The outrigger boats were out getting all the best waves as usual. Plus the sailboat was coming in and out through the channel. So you had to pick the right one. I was psyched to get two clean, long rides from out there all the way in. Managed to do some weird turns. One right that turned into a swoopy left arch before scooting up on my board and feeling the speed zip me left along the wave. Ended up waaay over by the sandy beach practically. Bigger, clean waves today with short lulls in between. So much fun. Perfect Waikiki and Hawaiian waves. Paddling over one today I became the farthest out, as everyone near me went for the first wave of the set. I watched it roll in from the horizon and under me in awe – such a big, perfect shape. Water so blue. The next one was mine and turned into one of the best drops/rides I’ve ever had here. Paddled in with total glee, having had a rare, perfect session on my new favorite board! Max got a bunch of fun waves too, making the day even better.
#400 / 1 (1) / 9’1 Mitsu
2-3 ft +- thigh to chest high occ. 4 ft.
South Shore Afternoon Report: Easing SSW swell this afternoon (buoys). Many spots offer waist-chest high surf, while some of the standouts still produce occasional shoulder-head high sets/peaks. We now have a light+ to moderate onshore SSE breeze this afternoon, but still fairly clean, just a light texture/bump to it. Mostly clear/sunny skies.