Up on the first alarm and down to the beach for a fast surf before Max’s 8:45am meeting. Conditions were good for LM. Low wind, glassy, small corners. A nice, longer right out front of the lot and a nice left a bit south. Max’s toe was acting up so he headed out without booties, which turned out to be some instant cure again. Amazing. I opted for a bit farther south on the outside and got two fun, fast green waves and a few reforms. All happened in twenty minutes, which felt more like five, before we had to head back. Stoked and need more.
#315 / 7:20am / 3′ rising / 8′ Revolver
[This morning’s dawn patrol: Fairly clean, sectiony lines being held back by the approaching morning high tide. Conditions improve marginally through the morning as the tide drops.]
4ft at 9s NW (314°)
1ft at 12s SW (226°)
0ft at 15s WNW (306°)
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