After three weeks out of the water*, today seemed like a dream. Being in the ocean again was enough to get me stoked and relaxed. It was a mellow Sunday crowd – the woman on the Pearson that reminds me of Deb S., the Dad and son with the green/yellow diamond board from last year, three teenage girls, and two guys on the inside. Beautiful, sunny day. Found parking on the first drive-in. Small to medium waves rolled in, some breaking on the outside, and others that just keep going towards the beach on the rising past 3′ tide. Saw Max get a good right from outside of 2nd jetty on his 9’6 Harbour. Stoked for him. I didn’t get any epic long rides but several short bursts. Lots of paddling for waves that didn’t quite break. Last year I knew exactly where to position for different types of swells from surfing here every day and it seemed like I could get every wave I went for. After a long hiatus on land, it takes a bit to get back in the zone. Psyched to get back in the water and break the surf-drought! Water felt so good.
#311 / 3:20pm / 3′ rising / 8′ Revolver
1-2ft @ 12s SSW
* Been busy jamming at work and working through two weekends on the redesign.