Such a fun, relaxing session today. Couldn’t be any luckier to be celebrating my birthday here in Waikiki with Max, feeling lucky to have my family and amazing life. Grateful. The waves matched the mood – mellow, small ones that rolled in with regularity for the first hour that were easy to catch and smooth. Some longer ones than yesterday for sure. A bit more push. I stopped counting after 10 waves. Had one left and two rights that were pretty long going all the way to the inside. High-fived the instructor on the inside on one ride in. Really loved the tri-color Donald Takayama 9′ noserider that I rented at the beach, which I had seen one of the local girls riding yesterday and catching ride after ride… it paddled so easily, rode really well and turned easily. It’s epoxy, which I’ve always felt was too light, but today changed that impression for me. Lots of fun. Max was catching endless rides on a 10′ and having fun. Stayed out for 2 hours and the mellow guy only charged us for an hour with the boards. Aloha all around.
#303 / 11:40am (2hrs) / 0′ rising / 9′ Donald Takayama noserider
[South Shore Regional Forecast for Tuesday, 01/07: Minor/background Southern Hemi swell mix. Surf is generally below knee to waist high for the South Shore.]
1ft at 15s SW (216°)
1ft at 10s S (177°)
1ft at 11s SW (211°)