Smaller today but clean and fun. Saw Nola catch a left while we were doing our surf check. Lots of lines in different spots. Had a harder time catching waves at first because of the higher tide or my positioning was off. Waves keep slipping under me and breaking farther in. Max got a bunch of great rides on the 10′ Koa. Second half of the sesh was much better and I got three fun rides. A woman surfer was out with her chocolate lab, who was swimming around in the ocean having fun. I think I even saw the dog paddle for a wave :) Afterwards, discovered my HP1 has a fin gash on the deck near the tail, probably from the other day’s session when the other surfer’s board went over mine. Stopped by Freeline to pick up some Sun Cure resin to patch it up.
#206 / 1pm / HP1
[Regional Summary: Building tide is slowing things down a little but our WNW swell continues to hold up fun size waves in the chest-head high+ range at better winter exposures. Conditions stay clean as well.]
3ft at 14s W (279°)
1ft at 14s SSW (200°)
1ft at 15s SW (224°)