Needed to unwind after an intense week at work and tomorrow’s Saturday so this morning was the time to forego sleep and get some waves on a solo mission. After scrambling to gather my stuff and get down there, arrived to an almost-full parking lot. Just when you think you’re early… A rainbow ran from behind the hills and all the way into the ocean and horizon. Tide was still looking kind of low so the lineups were farther out – one out by the pumphouse, another south of that. Opted for my own spot just a bit south of the group. Stoked to get a few waves and one really fun, zippy right, high-lining along while the spray blew around. Waves were surprisingly easy to catch in spite of my lackluster shape. Need more surf. So fun. As I was leaving, the waves started picking up even more, with nice chest-high lines rolling through.
#350 / 7:30 (40) / 2.5′ rising / 8’ Revolver
3ft at 9s NW (308°)
1ft at 12s SW (227°)
0ft at 16s WSW (236°