Slept too long and didn’t get down until later. Chatted with Rick as we ate breakfast in the Jeep. He’d ordered Max’s blank+stringer (solid old Redwood) and told us the tide was getting high and we might have already gotten here too late :) Joe said he wasn’t going out because of the wind but David was. “Better him than me,” said Joe with a smile. We headed to the south lot and parked beach side. Suited up while we could feel the wind picking up and see the tide picking up too. Didn’t think we’d get any with the way it looked. Offshore spray and waves breaking right onshore. Then a calmness between sets with a lull. Dreamy with overcast skies and some drizzle. Once we paddled out, I was psyched. Couldn’t believe that we caught one no more than ten minutes in – a party set wave where Max went right and I went left. YES! Then we drifted farther out only to realize we had to be even closer in. Paddled for lots that didn’t break, with wind blowing spray into your eyes so you couldn’t see. Then later, paddled and one didn’t break, but the next one lined up (only the bigger ones were working today) and Max and I both paddled for it. I angled left and went zipping down the line before trying to kick out of the boom-onto-shore breaking wave. Two breathtaking waves in 30 minutes. Such a beautiful morning with all the elements in play to make you feel ALIVE.


Counted 1 out of 2.
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#438 / 11:32 (36) / 5′ high / 9′ green Mitsu
2-3 ft +- knee to chest high
Afternoon Report for SF-San Mateo County: NW windswell builds and mixes with leftover SSW swell to offer waist-chest high+ surf to exposures. Best combo breaks see some shoulder-head high sets. Winds are steady-strong from the SW, adding texture and chop to conditions at many spots. Tide drops to a 1.2′ at 6:18pm.
4ft at 8s NW (316°)
1ft at 3s WSW (239°)
1ft at 12s SW (226°)